How to replace the suction filter in the hydraulic system of a JCB backhoe loader

 AWARNING
Make the machine safe before getting beneath it. Lower
the attachments to the ground; engage the parking
brake; remove the starter key, disconnect the battery.

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 1
Position the machine on level ground. Roll the loader
shovel forward and rest it on the ground. Retract the
extending dipper if fitted. Close the backhoe bucket.
Swing in the dipper. Lower the boom until the bucket
rests on the ground.Lower the stabilisers to the
ground. Stop the engine. Remove the starter key and
disconnect the battery.

 2
Remove hydraulic tank filler cap.

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 3
Place a container beneath the hydraulic tank to catch
the oil, remove drain plug and drain the hydraulic tank.
Make sure the container is large enough to hold the
tank contents，see
eService Capacities and
Lubricants.

 

 4
Undo clips A and disconnect the hydraulic return pipe.

5
Using a 65mm A/F spanner unscrew suction strainer B
and discard.

6
Fit a new filter assembly B, torque tighten to 15-20 Nm
(11-15 Ibf ft).

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7 

Reconnect suction hose.Make sure the clips A are
positioned 180° apart.

 

 

 

How to replace the filter element in the hydraulic system of a JCB backhoe loader

 AWARNING
Fine jets of hydraulic fluid at high pressure can penetrate
the skin. Do not use your fingers to check for hydraulic
fluid leaks. Do not put your face close to suspected
leaks. Hold a piece of cardboard close to suspected
leaks and then inspect the cardboard for signs of
hydraulic fluid. If hydraulic fluid penetrates your skin, get
medical help immediately.
INT-3-1-10/1

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1
Position the machine on level ground. Roll the loader
shovel forward and rest it on the ground. Retract the
extending dipper if fitted. Close the backhoe bucket.
Swing in the dipper. Lower the boom until the bucket
rests on the ground. Lower the stabilisers to the
ground. Stop the engine. Remove the starter key.

2
Remove the element assembly
a Remove screws A.Remove the cover plate B and
gasket C
* Note: If gasket C is a rubber type it can be reused provided
it is undamaged.If the gasket is a cork type it must be
discarded and a new gasket fitted on assembly.
bRemove spring D.
c Hold handle E and pull the element assembly from
the hydraulic tank. 

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 3
Remove the element from its canister.
a Hold canister F.
b Hold handle E and rotate the element G 90° anti-
clockwise.
c Pull on handle E, the element G should separate
from its canister F. Discard the old element.
d Remove and discard seal H.
eClean the inside of canister F.
New machines are fitted with a 5 micron filter element which
must be replaced at the first 1oo hour service with a 10
micron filter element.

Fit the new element.
aFit a new seal H.
b Make sure that seal J is fitted in the new element.
c Push the element G into its canister F and rotate the
element 90° to lock it into position. Check that the
element has locked into position by pulling on
handle E.
d Install the element assembly in the hydraulic tank.
* e Fit spring D and gasket C, (see 'Note' at step 2).
fFit cover plate B and tighten screws A to 21 Nm
(15.5 Ibf ft).
g Check oil level and replenish as required through
filler. Fit and tighten the filler cap as described on
previous page.

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Doosan engine emitting black and blue smoke, oil leaking from the turbocharger and oil dipstick - Solution

Doosan engine emitting black and blue smoke, oil leaking from the turbocharger and oil dipstick - Solution 

 

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Applicable Model: DH220LC-V Engine emitting black and blue smoke, oil leaking from the turbocharger and oil dipstick Symptom

 1. Inspection Guidelines: 1. Remove the intake manifold and muffler from the turbocharger and check the axial and radial clearances of the turbocharger spindle. Both are normal. 

2. Based on the symptoms, excessive pressure inside the crankcase is causing oil to leak from the oil dipstick and turbocharger. 

3. Removing the lower exhaust pipe and breather does not resolve the issue, indicating the cause is internal to the engine. 

4. Engine inspection revealed uneven wear on the fifth cylinder piston and worn connecting rod bearing. 

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 2. Cause:

 Due to the worn bearing, uneven piston wear allows the air-fuel mixture to enter the crankcase, causing oil to leak from the oil dipstick and turbocharger. 

 

 3. Solution: 

Replace the damaged part and it will be OK.

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How to disassemble the oil pressure regulator and viscosity sensor on a Cummins M11 series engine

 

(1) Removal of the main oil pressure regulator: See Figure 2-141 for disassembly of the main oil pressure regulator. Exercise extreme caution when removing the locating plug 1, as the pressure regulator spring 2 is compressed. 

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 (2) Removal of the viscosity sensor: Use a 7/16-inch sleeve.

 

Use a wrench, an extension rod, and a ratchet wrench to disassemble the viscosity sensor, as shown in Figure 2-142.

 

 

 Figure 2-139 Removing the crankshaft using a crane

 

 

 

 

 Figure 2-140 Marking on the surface of the upper bearing bush locating tongue

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Figure 2-141 Disassembly of the main engine oil pressure regulator

 

 

 Figure 2-142 Disassembly of the viscosity sensor

 

(3) Removal of the high oil pressure regulator. See Figure 2-143 for the removal of the high oil pressure regulator. During removal, use a light puller (part number 3375784) to remove the locating plug, regulator spring, washer, and valve disc. The valve seat will remain in the cylinder block. 

 

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How to disassemble the main bearing cap, bearing shell, and thrust bearing of the Cummins M11 series engine

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(1) Removal of the main bearing cap, lower bearing shell, and thrust bearing 

① Rotate the engine on the test bench so that the oil pan mounting flange faces upwards. The markings on the main bearing cap must match the numbers on the cylinder block oil pan flange, see Figure 2-134. During installation, the numbers on the main bearing cap and oil pan flange should match, and the locating tongue of the main bearing cap must be aligned with the locating tongue. 

 ②Use the ST-1178 main bearing cap puller to remove the main bearing cap, see Figure 2-135. The No. 4 main bearing cap is connected to the cylinder block by a locating pin, and the No. 4 main bearing shell is fitted with a thrust bearing. During disassembly, it is strictly forbidden to shake the main bearing cap; only the puller can be used to pull the main bearing cap vertically upwards.

 

 

 

 Figure 2-133 Marking the tongue plane for positioning the bearing shell on the connecting rod.

 

 

 

③ Remove the lower bearing shell from the main bearing cover and mark the journal number at the time of disassembly on the surface of the locating tongue, as shown in Figure 2-136. ④ Remove the lower thrust bearing from the No. 4 main bearing cover and mark it with the letters "L" and "front" or "rear", as shown in Figure 2-137.

 

 

 

 Figure 2-134 shows markings on the main bearing cap and oil pan flanges.

 

 

 

 

 Figure 2-135 Remove the main bearing cover using a puller

 

 

 

 

Figure 2-136 Marking on the surface of the bearing locating tongue

 

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Figure 2-137 Marking on the lower thrust bearing: “L” for front and “front” or “rear”.

 

 

 (2) 

① Crankshaft and Upper Bearing Removal Place nylon slings over connecting rod journals 3 and 4, and use a crane to remove the crankshaft, as shown in Figure 2-139. 

② Remove the upper bearing and mark the journal number at the time of removal on the surface of the bearing locating tongue, as shown in Figure 2-140.

 

 

 Figure 2-138 Mark "U" and "front" or "rear" on the upper thrust bearing.

 

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How to disassemble the Cummins M11 series engine: oil pump, camshaft, and gear housing.

  (1) Removal of the oil pump When removing the oil pump, it is strictly forbidden to pry the gear pump flange to avoid damaging the oil pump. Remove the three mounting bolts and two spacers, screw the two M8-1.25 bolts into the puller, and remove the oil pump from the engine, as shown in Figure 2-117.

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(2) Camshaft Removal Rotate the camshaft until the camshaft gear hole aligns with the thrust bracket bolt hole. Remove the two thrust bracket bolts, then remove the three bolts, rear cover plate, and gasket (see Figure 2-118). ② Install the camshaft installation guide tool (part number 3376388). Insert the expander (part number 3376923) through the opening in the rear cover plate into the camshaft. Rotate the bolt inside the expander clockwise to open the expansion plug (see Figure 2-119).

 

 Figure 2-117 Remove the bolts and use a puller to remove the oil pump.

 ③ Place the mandrel bushing onto the expander, and install the positioning guide extension rod on the expander, as shown in Figure 2-120. 

 ④ Slowly rotate the camshaft by hand to pull it out of the cylinder block, as shown in Figure 2-121. Support the removed camshaft with your other hand and remove the camshaft guide tool. 

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 (3) Removal of the gear housing: Remove all bolts from the gear housing and the gear housing itself, as shown in Figure 2-122, and remove the rear rectangular seal ring.

 

 Figure 2-118 Remove the camshaft thrust bracket bolts, rear cover plate, and gasket.

 

 Figure 2-119 Installing the expander into the camshaft 1 - Expander

 

 

 Figure 2-120 Insert the mandrel bushing onto the expander and install the extension rod. 2-Mandrel bushing 3-Extension rod  

 

Figure 2-121 The rotating camshaft pulls it out of the cylinder block. 

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How to disassemble the Cummins M11 series engine, including the pistons and connecting rods.

 Rotate the crankshaft to expose the carbon deposits above the piston inside the cylinder liner. Remove the carbon deposits using a fine-fiber abrasive pad (such as Scotch-Brite 7448, part number 3823258 or equivalent) and solvent, as shown in Figure 2-125.

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 Figure 2-122 Removing the gear chamber housing

 ② Use a crankshaft turning tool to rotate the crankshaft and fix the connecting rod at the bottom dead center (BDC) position so that the connecting rod bolts can be removed and loosened, as shown in Figure 2-126.

 

 

 Figure 2-123 Install the crankshaft turning tool onto the flywheel end of the crankshaft.

 

 

 Figure 2-124 Remove the cooling nozzle

 

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 Figure 2-125 Removing carbon buildup from the upper inner surface of the piston

 

 

 Figure 2-126. Rotate the crankshaft to fix the connecting rod at the bottom dead center position, then loosen the connecting rod bolts.

 ③ Use a hammer to tap the connecting rod bolt head to loosen the connecting rod cap from the annular locating pin. Remove the connecting rod bolt and connecting rod cap, see Figure 2-127. ④ Mark the cylinder number and the letter "L" on the surface of the lower bearing locating tongue, see Figure 2-128. However, it is strictly forbidden to make marks on the mating surface between the bearing and the crankshaft, to avoid damaging the crankshaft if the bearing continues to be used.

 

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Figure 2-127 Gently tap the connecting rod bolt head to loosen the connecting rod cap, then remove the connecting rod cap and bolt.

 

 Figure 2-128 Marking on the lower bearing locating tongue.

 

 Install the connecting rod guide pin (part number 3376038) in the connecting rod bolt hole. Use a wooden dowel and a hammer to push the connecting rod away from the crankshaft, as shown in Figure 2-129. Continue pushing the connecting rod until the piston rings protrude from the cylinder block.

 

6. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly and mark it, as shown in Figure 2-130. If the removed piston and connecting rod assembly is still usable, it must be reassembled with the original cylinder number. 

7Place the piston and connecting rod assembly on a special test bench to prevent damage, as shown in Figure 2-131. 

 8. Mark the connecting rod and its mating connecting rod cap with special markings, as shown in Figure 2-132. During assembly, the markings on the connecting rod and connecting rod cap must match and be on the same side of the engine. 

 9. Remove the upper connecting rod bearing and mark the cylinder number and the letter "u" on the flat surface of the locating tongue, as shown in Figure 2-133.

 

 

 Figure 2-129. Install the guide pin in the connecting rod bolt hole, and use a hammer to push the connecting rod away from the crankshaft.

 

Figure 2-130 Remove the piston connecting rod assembly and mark it.

 

 Figure 2-131 Placing the piston and connecting rod assembly on a special test bench.

 

 Figure 2-132 Special markings are made on each pair of connecting rods and connecting rod caps.